2012: A year to remember

A new year, a new Eurovision season. 2013 is already shaping up to be an exciting and interesting year. However 2012 will go down in Eurovision history as the most politically charged year in the history of the contest. I am delighted that I experienced Eurovision in Azerbaijan, it was a setting like no other. Now that the dust has settled, let's take a look back to May 2012, a contest which will be remembered for years to come.

 

In previous blog posts I have written about the political situation in Azerbaijan with regards to freedom of the press, freedom of expression as well as the on-going tensions between neighbouring Armenia. In the summer it was reported that those activists who held peaceful protests in Baku at the time of Eurovision had been put on trial. Eurovision 2012 was nothing other than a facade for the Azeri government to present a friendly face to the world. There are some particularly nasty regimes governing countries which are members of the European Broadcasting Union, of which Azerbaijan is far from the nadir. However if action is to be taken against countries which do not uphold basic human rights then the EBU needs to look a little closer to home. Belarus is one obvious example.

 

All of this does not mean that the contest should not have gone to Baku though. Azerbaijan won the contest fair and square, it would have been wrong to deny them the opportunity to host the event. The time to take action against Azerbaijan was in 2009 when the government called people in for questioning over voting for Armenia. This blatant violation was against the contest rules and yet the national broadcaster got away with it. If anything Eurovision 2012 backfired for the Azeri government since all of the allegations of human rights abuses came to the foreground. In front of the world's media. People were talking about the situation in the country when only a year previously it barely raised an eyebrow or got a mention in the press. This can only be a good thing.

 

Sweden does not need to play the same game that the Azeris did last year or the Russians in 2009. Eurovision is first and foremost a television show. The venue next year will be smaller, accreditation is likely to be restricted and the first week of rehearsals will be behind closed doors. They're even making the fans stand! Eurovision is changing. Whilst the arenas will stay, we are unlikely to see such spectacles like 2009 (largest LED screen in the world) or 2012 (brand new venue built specifically for Eurovision and making hundreds homeless in the process) for a long while, if ever. Eurovision in Azerbaijan was an excercise in public diplomacy, albeit an expensive one. The Swedes are taking the show back to basics in 2013. This is probably just as well considering that several countries have announced that they will not enter the contest this year. Some were not surprising - Poland and Portugal are both feeling the pinch and some of the smaller countries in Eurovision are continung to stay away - Monaco, Andorra and the Czech Republic. However the two big shocks were Bosnia Herzegovina and Turkey.

 

Bosnia and Turkey have incredibly successful records in Eurovision, the former having qualified to every single final and the latter scoring its best ever placings over the past decade including that all important victory back in 2003. The Turks appear to be in a strop about the Big Five rule as well as the return of jury votes. This is curious as Turkey came second in 2010 and fourth in 2009. These are showings that many countries would love! Moreover the Big Four/Five rule has been in place since 2000! I suspect that there are other issues at play here. The Turkish government appears to be slowly turning its back on Europe - economically, politically and in the case of Eurovision, culturally. Of course for many countries the burden of the participation fee has led to many questioning the value of entering the contest. For the most part, the participation levels have remained reasonably steady and in the case of Malta, Greece, Estonia and Latvia, sponsorship has been sought which has allowed them to fly their respective flags once more. Eurovision usually takes a while to catch up with whatever is going on in the wider world and it appears that four years after the financial crisis hit Europe, austerity has come to Eurovision. Interesting times ahead, watch this space.

 

For me personally 2012 was an amazing year. Visiting Azerbaijan for Eurovision was an experience I'll never forget and was an extremely fertile ground for my own research interests. The everyday people I met in Baku were wonderful and it just goes to show that it's the citizens not the government which make a country. I think valuable lessons have been learned at the EBU. To those brave and inspiring people who risk their own safety to bring greater freedom to Azerbaijan, I wish all the very best for their journey ahead. As the German spokesperson, Anke Engelke said during the voting, it's good to have a vote and to have a choice, good luck on your journey Azerbaijan!

 

2012 was also a busy one since I did a lot of television and radio work which I really enjoyed. I am particularly grateful to the BBC Three crew for having me on their live coverage of the semi finals - I loved the experience and would dearly love to do it again. 2013 is shaping up to be a busy year since I have a publishing contract to write a book on Eurovision. Tartu University Press have given me a tight deadline to finish the manuscript so I had better get my head down!

 

As the 2013 season starts, I wish all of you a happy new year, thank you for reading and may the best song win!

 

 



You've got a friend

People often ask me why I like going to Eurovision and why I'm interested in it. It's funny, when you think long and hard, what is it that appeals? The music? Sort of. The excitement of visiting new places? Absolutely! The low costs? Absolutely not! The friends made along the way? Bingo! It's funny, Eurovision really is an exciting and interesting world. I managed to do a whole load of research for my PhD on the back of my attendance at the Song Contest. It's not just about that for me though. Yes it was a site of fieldwork, it was also a hobby, a bit of fun, an excuse to visit countries that perhaps I might not have otherwise. I do like a lot of the songs of course. However it's not really about these things when it comes down to it. It's really about the company. If I didn't have such fun with the people there, then I doubt I would enjoy it really. It's not about where you are, but who you're with. 

Eurovision is changing. The EBU have hinted that adjustments to the format may well take place in the future. To put it bluntly, Eurovision has grown too big for it's boots. Whilst the number of countries competing will undoubtedly still remain large, the length of rehearsal time (two weeks at present) and the scale & cost of the event (Baku will have that record for a while) look likely to be curtailed. This may well have an impact on the level and amount of media accreditation available for the contest as well. It looks like the days of lavish welcome receptions for all, aftershow parties and dare I say it, Georgian parties, are numbered.

2011 already saw a different approach to the party circuit at Eurovision. Accreditation did not guarantee entry to the Euroclub and certainly not to the official welcome reception. Many fans and journalists felt disappointed and at times, because of the actions of others who would have sold their grannie to get to the ball, I too felt a little frustrated. At the end of the day did it really matter? Not really. Having been one of the fortunate few to have attended the opening reception, as lovely as it was, I didn't have the usual banter with those around me, the vast majority of people I know were not there. Dusseldorf showed that it doesn't really matter what party you attend, it really is who you're with that counts. 

In July I was honoured to attend the civil partnership of Diarmuid and Willie, Irish friends of mine who held their celebration in Waterford castle. It just shows you that Eurovision really does unite people. It was a truly special occasion and I felt humbled to be a part of it. On the Friday the main reception was held with over three hundred guests. So many of the Eurovision gang were there and what a blast! I have honestly not had that much fun or laughed so much in a long time. A week later my throat was still sore from all the laughter. Of course it wouldn't a be Eurovision wedding without Eurovision stars performing! Niamh Kavanagh was the compere for the evening and what a fine host she made. Of course the lovely Nicki French was there and put on a superb set that had everyone on their feet. It was so lovely to see people outside of the Eurovision bubble, have conversations about real life and to meet so many of Diarmuid and Willlie's family and friends. It truly was a special event and the memories of which will last for a long, long time.

So basically going to Eurovision is really like going on a trip with a hundred mates. If you're with your friends, you'll have a good time. What's the point in being at a party with nobody to talk to when you could be down the pub enjoying the craic? As people turn their attention towards Sweden 2013, that might be worth remembering. When it comes to Eurovision, you've got a friend...

  

It's going to be a hot summer...

Well certainly not in terms of the weather that's for sure!

After the dust has settled on Eurovision 2012 it appears that the authorities in Azerbaijan are starting to take action against those pesky human rights campaigners who were part of the Sing for Democracy campaign back in May. After the contest, Ali Hasanov, released a statement condemning those who had been involved in several peaceful protests during the run-up to Eurovision in Baku. "Such people shouldn't feel they can dare to go out in the city; they should feel ashamed". Hasanov had previously stated that there would be no retaliation against protestors, something which seemed to appease the EBU at least. However this seems to be nothing more than lip-service, as expected. On 13 June Mehman Huseynov, media coordinator of the Sing for Democracy campaign, was arrested and detained for "acts of hooliganism" (didn't the authorities pay attention to the antics of many Euro fans during the week??) Whilst Huseynov has now been released, he faces a criminal case which could see him serving a lengthy prison sentence. Meanwhile journalists who criticise the government continue to be arrested. It's situations like this that remind me personally that we are very lucky in the UK (and other countries) to live in a society free from fear of persecution and intimidation. Sing for Democracy were, in my opinion, fine ambassadors for Azerbaijan. The people I spoke with were eloquent, informed and more importantly, used peaceful means to spread their message. As far as protesters go, they could teach our lot a thing or two about dignity!

Does all this mean that Eurovision should never have been in Azerbaijan? Not quite. For the first time ever a huge spotlight shone on Azerbaijan's human rights record. This was specifically because of Eurovision. The contest allowed the pro-reform protesters a voice and a platform. For civil society in a young democracy this is surely a good thing. It's saddening to hear that those who worked so hard to raise awareness of the situation in Azerbaijan are now facing repercussions. However I genuinely hope that the seeds of change have been planted and that maybe Eurovision did have a positive impact in terms of raising awareness and opening a dialogue in the country. There were calls for the boycott of Eurovision this year. This sort of misses the point. The EBU is not a political organisation and amongst the list of members are countries which have a dubious record on human rights at best. The time for questioning Azerbaijan's eligibility to be a part of Eurovision was back in 2008 when the country joined the contest. It'll certainly be a tricky time for the EBU should Belarus win in future! 

Sing for Democracy made major strides in those few weeks in the run-up to the contest. Baku may have lost out on the 2020 Olympic bid but I dare say that there will be other opportunities for that spotlight to shine in the future. The everyday people I met in Baku were absolutely delightful, for that reason alone, 2012 could quite possibly be my favourite Eurovision ever and I hope for their sake that basic human rights are upheld in Azerbaijan in future. 

In other news (or not news as the case may be) in June the Daily Mail reported that the BBC were embroiled in a "Eurovision race row" and that several "senior figures" connected to a number of previous UK entrants had gone on the record to state that they thought racism was a factor in Britain's recent flops at Eurovision and that the UK should withdraw from the competition altogether. The (poorly written) article alluded to racism behind the scenes of the contest itself. If racism is alive and well at Eurovision then how did Estonia win in 2001 with a black singer? How did the UK finish second in 1998 with Imaani (the first black UK representative)? How did the Netherlands end up in fourth place that year? How did Sweden's Loreen, who has Moroccan heritage and performed with a black dancer, storm to victory in 2012? 

Only this week Andrew Lloyd-Webber waded into the row by stating that the UK was the victim of racism in 2009. His argument holds no water. Jade Ewen came 5th out of a field of 42 in 2009, our strongest showing in the best part of a decade. Her placing can hardly be seen as a failure and she received votes from both East and West. Lloyd-Webber's comments personify and embody all that is wrong with the British attitude towards Eurovision. Why do we arrograntly assume that we are the best? Andy Abraham had a very weak song in 2008 and was rewarded with just 14 points for it. The UK public didn't buy the single either. Like Josh Dubovie in 2010, Jade Ewen in 2009 and Engelbert this year, if the British public can't get behind the song then how can we expect our cousins on the continent to vote for it? We shouldn't be so arrogant to assume that it must be someone else's fault, that we deserve to do well just for showing up. Maybe, just maybe, the likes of Javine and Andy Abraham just weren't good enough. Quite frankly Lloyd-Webber was lucky to finish 5th with such a bland, clichéd and repetitive song! Jade Ewen, a fantastic singer and wonderful ambassador for the UK, deserved better. 

Such reporting and blanket statements from unnamed sources do not add anything to a serious debate on a pertinent issue. On the one hand it could be argued that overt racism does appear to be a major problem, perhaps more so in the East, if recent concerns over Euro 2012 are anything to go by. Certainly Gaitana, the Ukrainian singer in 2012 faced racism from her own politicians when one minister stated that she shouldn't performing in Eurovision because she failed to represent "organic Ukrainian culture". However TV bosses stood firm and Gaitana represented her country with the anthemic, "Be My Guest". Her selection as the face of Ukraine at Eurovision was certainly an interesting one in the year that racism in Ukraine was in the spotlight as a result of the country hosting Euro 2012. In a field of 42, Gaitana finished 15th. Is this racism? I doubt it. Something like this can never really be proven which is the difficulty in having a sensible debate about it.

The article from the Daily Mail and Andrew Lloyd-Webber's comments have merely turned something which wasn't news (it only appeared because it was a slow news day) into something which is even less than a storm in a teacup. If anything, rather than racism, it screams of good old-fashioned sour grapes to me.   

 

Eurovision 2012: La Fiesta Termino

Just two weeks ago I was in the middle of the Eurovision bubble, in Baku. Now, it's like it never happened. Eurovision 2012 may be over but it won't be easily forgotten by those who were there.

Something interesting happened this year though, the big fan favourite of the contest actually won! Sweden's Loreen was riding high in both the betting odds and fan polls and yet somehow I didn't think she would actually take the trophy. There have been too many times when a big fan favourite has failed at the final hurdle; Hungary in 2011, Iceland in 2010, Sweden in 2008 and of course two of the most spectacular flops: Belgium in 2006 and Cyprus in 1999. Personally, I didn't mind the song, I thought it was ok and still do. It wasn't my favourite (good old Eesti was, and still is!) but I am happy that Sweden won. Why? Well two reasons: firstly, it's a massive hit all over Europe which is good for the contest. "Euphoria" is currently sitting at number three in the UK top 40. This is an amazing achievement and means that the 2012 Eurovision winner is the biggest non-UK Eurovision hit since Germany's Nicole hit the top spot 30 years ago! The second reason is a purely selfish one; Sweden is easy to get to and accommodation will be (hopefully) pain-free to arrange! Now the beer prices, well, that's a whole other matter!

Hard luck to the UK, finishing second last was certainly disappointing. I thought the BBC made a brave decision to choose The Hump and in terms of UK audience, it was a stroke of genius. When it was announced that Engelbert Humperdinck would be representing the UK in Eurovision, there was intense media interest. The story featured on both the BBC and ITV news programmes. In terms of the profile of the contest, it was a triumph.

As for the song, it was pleasant, unoffensive and perfectly crafted. However, it wasn't instant enough for the average viewer and poor Engelbert's renditions were just a little bit off. On the Friday evening, when the juries were voting, The Hump didn't turn in his finest performance. That will have undoubtedly cost the UK valuable jury votes. On the Saturday night final, he looked a little out of his depth and ultimately delivered a disappointing performance. There was also the draw which didn't help poor Engelbert and the fact that this year was deemed by many fans to be a strong one and the winner too close to call.

I don't buy into the notion that "Europe hates us". We just weren't good enough. As much as I think the BBC made a brave and genius decision to select The Hump, he hadn't had a hit since the 1970s. Yes, there is always neighbourly voting - that's always been the case in Eurovision and probably always will be. The UK and Ireland are just as guilty of that these days. Ultimately though, the winner received points across the board with only one country, Italy, failing to give Sweden anything.

If the UK are hated so much by the public then how come Blue finished 5th in the televote last year? How come Jade Ewen finished 5th overall in Moscow in 2009? Eurovision is a television show on a Saturday night, do we really think people are sitting at home thinking "that's a great song from the UK but I couldn't vote for it because of David Cameron"? I think such notions, quite frankly, give too much credence to the average voter in Eurovision. Part of the issue may also lie in the voting structure in Eurovision. Only ten countries score points (1-8, 10, 12) so technically The Hump might have been mid-table with many countries and failed to score.

In a strong year, in a field of 42 entries, what makes us think that we deserve to be up there for simply gracing the stage? If the UK public couldn't get behind the song (it charted at number 60), then how can we expect Europe to vote for it? Such attitudes fail to acknowledge that Eurovision has changed and we have to change with it, come back next year, with something fresh and new and give Europe a damn good thrashing! Hard luck Engelbert, you were a fantastic ambassador for the UK and didn't have a thing to lose! Thank you for the music!

Azerbaijan was an interesting setting for the 2012 contest and one which I am incredibly glad that I went to. It was a year to remember for a number of reasons. Baku is four hours ahead of UK time which certainly played havoc with the old body clock! Allegations of human rights abuses, concerns about freedom of the press and freedom of expression, coupled with tensions between Azerbaijan and both Armenia and Iran meant that Eurovision 2012 was perhaps the most politically-charged contest of all time. I met some incredibly brave and inspiring people in Baku and I salute those from organisations such as Sing For Democracy who put themselves on the line. Activists did not want us to boycott Azerbaijan, they wanted us to come to the country and experience it for ourselves. A year ago there was no discussion concerning Azerbaijan's human rights record, where as now, there is a dialogue and I see that as a positive thing. I hope that the work that human rights activists do is allowed to progress without hindrance. It was interesting to note that Anke Engelke, one of the presenters from 2011, directly addressed the political situation in Azerbaijan during the voting:

"Tonight nobody could vote for their own country. But it is good to be able to vote. And it is good to have a choice. Good luck on your journey, Azerbaijan. Europe is watching you."  

The volunteers and the ordinary people I met in Baku were wonderful. They were so incredibly friendly and helpful and were a credit to their country. Special thanks should also go to my friend Zuly who helped to arrange accommodation and contacts for me and also her brother Haji who was incredibly hospitable and provided us with a memorable evening of fine cuisine and followed by some karaoke I'd rather forget!

For me personally, Eurovision 2012 was exciting and interesting. I was fortunate to be interviewed by a variety of media outlets including the BBC's World Service as well as The Telegraph, Daily Express and even The Sun! I owe a debt of gratitude to the BBC3 team as well who produced the UK coverage of the two semi finals and provided me with a platform as 'Dr Eurovision'. I came home feeling very exhausted but overall, incredibly happy. Many of my friends talked about experiencing PED or Post-Eurovision Depression. I too have had a few pangs and certainly missed the friends I have made over the years and the new ones I met in Baku. I am already looking forward to being reunited again as our thoughts turn to Sweden in 2013. Ulimately though, it's back to reality which for now, is outside of the Eurovision bubble.

Eurovision 2012: Day Five

They say that Eurovision not a sprint, it's a marathon. How true that is. Nearly a week in Baku and the tiredness is starting to creep in. I've been pacing myself though and not been drinking all that much alcohol (it's true!) Quite a lot of people have been a bit iffy over the past few days, myself included, we aren't sure if it's the different food, the heat or the booze, or maybe a combination. A little tip if you're planning on coming to Baku - bring imodium with you!

Traffic in Baku is mad, and so are the drivers. The shuttle bus to the arena is definitely the easiest (and safest) option. Each bus leaves with a policeman (or someone in a uniform anyway) sitting with us for the journey. Every time I board, I'm asked where I'm from. It does seem that people here are genuinely interested and curious about the thousands of visitors to their country. I've found the locals to be really friendly and helpful despite some unscrupulous taxi drivers trying their luck!

There was drama during the day when a number of websites crashed after a series of cyber attacks. One of the biggest, ESCToday, remains offline. A bizarre picture was displayed and it turns out that it was an anti-gay group who were responsible and the source has been listed as Iran. It's pretty nasty stuff, the translation reads:

"What will gays bring to Azerbaijan? What will happen in Azerbaijani families after gay pride? There is no place for immoral gays in Azerbaijan. Leave our country. No place to stay in Azerbaijan for gays who look like animals. There is no place for evil in this country. We paint blue to red blood".



Personally I do not feel unsafe here and in those sorts of situations you just need to keep calm and carry on! Of course security is tight and there are lots of people in suits circling the arena but all these attacks did was to send the rumour mill into overdrive. If you put enough Eurovision fans/press together in the same room a story will appear from somewhere. Usually it's completely made up, sometimes it's not. One of the ones I heard was that there are secret police mingling in the crowds for our safety. Who knows? Let's hope for everyones' sake that this event passes off peacefully.

On a slightly cheerier note, the Georgian party took place in the Euroclub last night. I'm not a fan of red wine but given that the Georgians had invited us to sample their local wine I thought it would be rude not to! It was absolutely delicious! Alongside the wine and food, the Georgians treated us to shots of chacha, a strong "vine vodka". As is customary at many of these parties, our hosts also put on a show. Several acts took to the stage (Belarus, Malta) and of course Georgia's own Anri. All in all, a fine evening. Georgian parties don't disappoint and they are now becoming the highlight of the Eurovision party circuit.

The Georgian party in full-swing!

Tomorrow evening I've been invited to a party hosted by Ralph Siegel to celebrate 30 years since his victory in Eurovision with "Ein Bischen Freiden" in 1982. I can't seem to find my invitation though, it's probably under a pile of clothes in the apartment, it remains to be seen whether I'll actually make it! More tomorrow!

Eurovision 2012: Day Four

Baku has the horn. All the time. The car horn that is. The noise is constant and becoming a little irritating. Once one starts, they all start! I don't really know why they do it as it surely doesn't make a difference to the traffic. I guess we'll get used to it and at least I have my ear plugs.

Rehearsals are continuing - today was the second half of the second semi final. Things are starting to take shape here in Baku. The shuttle buses are running and the pavements outside the arena are nearly there. I think it'll look stunning next week. Amazing progress has been made since I arrived last Saturday and I dare say that more progress will be made in the coming days.

Georgia took to the stage today and the general feeling here is that it's going to qualify. Georgia have never failed to make the final and certainly know how to stage their songs for maximum effect. By all accounts it's a stunning country and I would love for Eurovision to be there one year. I asked the delegation about the importance of Eurovision for Georgia and they were very forthright in their response stating that as a small country they have a lot to offer but what they lack is a platform and Eurovision offers them this. "This is our chance to show ourselves to Europe" according to Maya, the head of delegation. They also said that it is Georgian policy to take part in every major event to promote Georgian talent and the state itself. Maya added that every year the Georgian Public Broadcaster ensures that there is a national element in their Eurovision entries, whether it be a costume or a flag and this year is no different.

What people really wanted to know though, was where and when would the Georgian party be? Every year Georgia hosts THE party of the Eurovision season. Indeed in 2010 it rivalled the official welcome reception! The Georgians are fine hosts and always prove themselves to be the most hospitable of all the Eurovision delegations. I don't see the 2012 event, which takes place tomorrow night, being any different.

Azerbaijan's Safura enjoying the Georgian party in 2010

Estonia also rehearsed yesterday. Which of course, for me, was the highlight of the day. I am a wannabe Estonian and I admit it - I did get a PhD out of my love of that country after all! Of course I will always wave the Estonian flag at Eurovision regardless of the song but this year the song is actually my favourite. "Kuula" is stunningly good and Ott Lepland has a brilliant voice. The performance was hampered by a few technical hitches but was still impressive. Coming after the more uptempo performances of Georgia and Turkey, this really stands out and I can see this doing very well indeed. It's been ten years since Estonia hosted Eurovision and the team stated that whilst the contest has changed, the significance of hosting a large international event has not diminished. The Estonians are a very professional and self-assured bunch and you can clearly see the similarities between Estonians and their Nordic neighbours in the way that they carry themselves.

The biggest talent in Estonia: Ott Lepland

The press centre is gradually getting busier and the promotional items have started to materialise. Azerbaijan are getting in on the act too and there is an abundance of books and magazines revealing the delights that this country has to offer. Coupled with the tea served in national costume and the traditional snacks, it is clear that the Azeris are not wasting this opportunity to showcase their country. I am a little annoyed with myself though - I bought one of those Baku magazines in WH Smith and it cost me a fiver! Here in Baku there are hundreds of copies going for free! Typical!

 Promoting Azerbaijan at every opportunity

Tomorrow it's the Georgian party - I think there might be one or two sore heads on Friday!

Eurovision 2012: Day Three

All the days appear to be merging into one. I seem to have lost track of what is going on in the real world. The perils of the Eurovision bubble!

We've finally worked out where the shuttle buses to the arena leave from (the very plush Hilton!) Getting to the hotel was more than a challenge. You would think that crossing a road would be simple but not in Baku. The cars kept on coming and coming and coming. When in doubt follow what the natives do; just step out in front of the on-coming traffic and hope that they stop. When in Rome and all that. We lived to tell the tail and boarded the shuttle bus to the Crystal Hall.

There is more food available in the press centre (at a small charge) and coffee has arrived. It seems that slowly but surely things are becoming more organised. Outside the landscaping is continuing and the pavements are nearing completion. They're working day and night in preparation for next week. Security is pretty tough and airport-style checks are in place. This is the only press centre where I've noticed that the security officers have guns. I'm not sure if this is just the Azeri way or if it's as a result of some sort of threat.

Building continues outside the arena

On the streets, people continue to stare. Eurovision delegates are a curious attraction. In the local mini market several school girls piled in to speak to us and in general people have been very friendly. One thing which is notable is that I've not seen much in the way of people begging or stray dogs for that matter. Could it be that the rumours of "cleansing" the streets are true? Several YouTube videos suggest that culls have taken place and beggars removed from the city centre. Who knows?

Another day of rehearsals. Ukraine was the most highly anticipated of the day. Gaitana is in my opinion, the best singer in the contest. She's a belter. As for the staging, whilst it was only the first rehearsal, it looked a bit "busy". After she was selected to sing for Ukraine, Gaitana came under attack from politician Yuriy Syrotyuk who claimed that she failed to represent "organic Ukrainian culture". In other words she's a bit too black for his liking. I asked Gaitana about her response to this. She said that it was the first time in her life that she had experienced overt racism in Ukraine and that whilst she was initally devastated, she chose not to respond and kept a diginified silence. Gaitana is a classy lady and a fine ambassador for her country. It's interesting that she is the first singer of African origin to represent Ukraine, with their Euro 2012 anthem, in the same year that there are concerns over racist football fans overshadowing the matches.

In the evening I went to meet up with some locals who had befriended many of us on Facebook. We went to a local bar and learned about life in Azerbaijan. Later on it was decided that we would go to the Euroclub for a bit of dancing. You can't get into the Euroclub without accreditation. However our new friends somehow managed after one of them phoned their father. It seems that money and connections speak louder than regulations here.

Tomorrow Estonia, my adopted country, take to the stage. Stay tuned!

To Baku and beyond! Eurovision 2012: Day Zero

Greetings from hot and sunny Azerbaijan!

After quite a lengthy journey (overnight via Istanbul) I’ve arrived in the Azeri capital. Baku so far, is very impressive.

Leaving on the 22.30 Istanbul flight from Heathrow on Friday evening, it was the first time I’ve flown with Turkish Airlines. To say that the staff were slow would be putting it politely. It took nearly two hours for the first trolley to grace the aisle. I’ve flown from Helsinki to Tallinn before which took 20 minutes and yet they managed to serve a cup of tea and flog duty free in that time! However the Turks more than made up for it afterwards – the food was delicious and the booze was flowing.

A highlight was when the flight attendant asked Elaine Dove whether she wanted chicken or beef. Her reply: “Gin and tonic”. She said that she didn’t hear what the flight attendant asked. We know better.

"Just the one gin and tonic"

We finally touched down in Baku around 14.00 (10.00 UK time), all of us slightly nervous about the visa registration process and what lay ahead. It was surprisingly simple, thanks to the helpful and friendly volunteers who guided us through the process.

The system itself was a bit of a faff but could have been worse:

-          Visa invite checked upon boarding plane
-          Passport checked upon arrival
-          Form completed
-          Passport and form checked
-          Passport checked once again.

Close attention was paid to what stamps were already in passports. Could it be that they were looking for anyone who had been to Armenia? Or more controversially, Nagorno-Karabakh? I like to call it Wrexham, it seems like a safer option. The guidebook advises tourists to steer clear of this subject in conversations.

The volunteers at the airport were fine ambassadors for their country; friendly, helpful and knowledgeable. They even negotiated a cheaper taxi rate for us! The journey from the airport was slightly unnerving. Drivers here don’t seem to pay much attention to lanes, stop signs or even other cars! Still, our friendly driver welcomed us to Azerbaijan and sent us on our way. We then met Yuliya, a non-nonsense Azeri who gave us the keys to the apartment. We had arrived. Eurovision 2012 here we come!

Baku as a city is very impressive although very much a work in progress. It’s clear that there is wealth here and there is a potential for it to be a Dubai of the future. High-rise buildings and marble boulevards meet designer shops and fancy restaurants. However a stroll around the city reminds you that alongside the oil-fuelled boom, poverty remains. You can turn from a plush avenue onto a dusty side street in seconds.

The venue for Eurovision, The Crystal Hall, is stunning. Situated on a peninsula on the Caspian Sea, it’s an impressive setting for this contest. The massive National Flag Square, boasting the largest flagpole and largest flag in the world (or is it the second-largest now?), overlooks the stadium (making it look tiny in comparison!) Even more impressive is the fact that it was built from scratch in just 8 months! It is of course also one of the more controversial venues for Eurovision. More on that in the coming days.

The National Flag Square and the Crystal Hall, Baku

The locals have been friendly and eager to help out during the times I’ve been lost or as I like to say "finding my way on the map". One nice Azeri man even gave me some spare change when I was buying a bottle of water so that I didn’t need to break my 20 AZN note. Very kind and a nice start to the trip - I wonder if Londoners will be as accommodating during the Olympics? Baku has certainly entered into the Eurovision spirit, the contest logo is litterally everywhere! Even on the special Eurovision taxis, which we have been advised to use as opposed to the older Ladas. I wonder why?

A Eurovision taxi

After a lovely evening meal near Fountain Square, it was time to head home. Having been up since 6.30 on Friday morning, I was more than a little tired. I don’t think I’ve ever fallen asleep so quickly or been as keen to head to bed early on a Saturday night! Tomorrow the rehearsals and press conferences begin – stay tuned!